Poila Baisakh In City: Food, Memory And Rhythms

HYDERABAD: “Pet bhorle, mon bhorbe.” The idea that a full stomach brings contentment is how Poila Baisakh (Bengali New Year) is celebrated in Hyderabad every year. This year, as April 15 falls mid‑week, most gatherings have shifted to the weekend, reflecting work schedules and the way the community now organises its new year.“Poila Baisakh here starts a bit later. Back home, it would begin in the morning itself with new clothes, visits, the smell of food everywhere. Here, it starts after work, in the evening,” said Deepanita Guha, who has lived in Hyderabad for the last couple of years. Her account reflects one end of the city’s celebrations. On the other, associations have adjusted their calendars and formats to match the same constraint. Rahul Bose, who has lived in Hyderabad since 1999 and started the Bengalis in Hyderabad Collective two years ago, said his group will meet on April 19 instead of April 15. “Wednesday is a workday after all,” he said. The event will take place at a Bengali restaurant in Kondapur. “That place reminds us of Calcutta bylanes and street food, so there is no better way to start the new year — good people, a good time and most importantly really good food.” Food runs through every plan. It also reveals what cannot be carried across cities without change. “While we get most food items nowadays, varieties of fish and vegetables are still hard to find. Ilish or hilsa is such a strong reminder of home, but not always the easiest one to get here,” Bose said. Even vegetables such as pool are prized possessions here since they are rare. “Back in Bengal, you get it everywhere. People often imagine Bengal as only a fish‑eating state. There is very little awareness of the vegetarian dishes that are equally important to us.” Older associations show a different timeline of change. Abhijeet Bhattacharya, vice president of Bangiya Sanskritik Sangha in Secunderabad, said their celebrations began at home and moved into larger venues over the last three decades. The group will meet on April 15 at Keyes Girls High School. He said the menu remains central. “Food is synonymous with Bengalis. All discussions start and end with food and even when someone is discussing politics, it somehow turns to food,” he said. At Bhattacharya’s events, food is the main draw. From Kosha Mangsho to Pulao and Misti Doi, he said people can expect it all. “When it comes to Bengali food in the city, one thing we have picked up from Telugu culture is the spiciness. Here we like it hotter. In Bengal, food is not usually this spicy.” Speaking of cultural amalgamation, the Hyderabad Bengali Samitee, celebrating at Country Club this year, has added Apricot Delight and Double ka Meetha to its menu. “Ask any Bengali, they all love the sweets of Hyderabad, especially Apricot Delight and Shaidoot Malai,” added Deepanita. Newer groups have built their events around access as much as memory. Anirban Dutta, who has lived in Hyderabad for 16 years and works in the IT sector, runs Arohon Cultural Society. The group will organise a Boishakhi Adda on April 18 at a community hall in Kokapet. He said pricing was a deliberate decision. “There are many clubs, but food ranges are usually high. We are trying to keep the price point accessible and recreate the food we miss when we are away from home — like fish fry, chop and macher kalia.” He described food as the first pillar of the event. “Pet bhorle, mon bhorbe.” (If the stomach is full, so will your heart.)



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