Any Indian history textbook will tell you, the West has a tendency to steal. From our diamonds and textiles to our spices and now, our literal chappals, this tale is as old as time and the colonization shows no signs of stopping. The most recent entry into the list of Indian-originated articles, rebranded and priced up, but never credited, are the Kohlapuri chappals. The centuries old traditional leather sandals, handcrafted in Kohlapur, Maharashtra, and known across India for their durability, intricate design, and signature toe loops seem eerily similar to the tan leather toe- loop sandals that walked the Milan runway as part of the Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show.The show itself took place on the 22nd, and was curated by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, themed, “A shift of attitude – dismantling of meaning, and dismantling power,” showcased 56 looks ranging from leather jackets paired with non-existent shorts, and trench coats paired with joggers and bizarre raffia hats, but the one debuted piece which caught the attention of many online were the Kohlapuri chappals. They bore no marks of reinvention or modernization and yet they also bore no marks of an Indian heritage. The show invites also featured the leather toe ring as a takeaway for the attendees.The Internet expressed frustration over the blatant ripoff, with an X user commenting, “Just like the ‘Scandinavian scarves’, the Western fashion industry is ripping off Indian fashion again.” Without a doubt, seeing a piece of our rich handicraft tradition featured by a powerhouse luxury brand such as Prada, brings about a sense of pride, but without context and without credit, the story of our beloved chappals gets lost. This artform has sustained since the 12th century and now as it enters the global market, it deserves to be acknowledged in its full form, with the people behind the craft receiving their appreciation and in the most ideal scenario, collaboration and compensation as the masters of the art.Every other month, a new piece of Indian clothing seems to get colonized. The 2010s Coachella craze of the bindis and henna “tattoos”, the dupatta as the “scandinavian scarf”, the lehenga as the “y2k maxi skirt”, and latest of all, Alia Bhatt’s Cannes saree described as a “gown”, the cultural appropriation and ignorance is apparent. All we ask for is some acknowledgement, but all the West does is slap on a designer label and sell our Kohlapuris for £1,000 a pair. However, the Kohlapuris have never left the style scene in India, kept alive by indigenous brands such as Vhaan, Kalapuri, and Jaypore which actually collaborate with artisans and deserve to be checked out by anyone currently stuck in the Kohlapuri craze.This article is authored by Rishima Mosali, an intern at Deccan Chronicle.
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