Hyderabad: Shops that produce waraq — a thin leaf of silver or gold used on sweets or other edibles — are on the verge of disappearing due to the rising prices of gold and silver and low wages to the workers.
Decades ago, dozens of waraq shops used to dot around Charminar, but now only two remain open behind Madina. Due to the increase in the prices of silver and gold, people are turning to cheaper alternatives, which has reduced the demand for waraq.
“The value of our work has been reduced to four aana and one rupay or� Rs 1.25,” said Mohammad Rafiyaz, an artisan at M.A. Metro Waraq Shop.
Among the 25 artisans in his shop, only two still come to work. They toil all day, hammering leather packets to produce thin sheets of silver. Despite such intense physical labour, they barely earn Rs 10,000 per month.
Despite their hard work and skill, they achieve very little — neither recognition nor adequate payment. “The work is very hard. We are drenched in sweat from morning till evening in this heat,” says Mohd. Shareef, the owner of M.A. Metro Waraq Shop.
“It takes 2 to 2.5 hours to craft 150 sheets, yielding only Rs. 150. “How can we leave this job? There is no other work. If we leave this too, then what will we eat?” replied Mohd. Shareef, when asked about quitting due to poor profits.
Another major reason for the decline of these shops is the shortage of workers. Youngsters are not interested in waraq work because it requires intense labour, offers low income, and there is less demand for it now. People prefer other, cheaper alternatives.
The advent of gutka has also caused losses to their business. In the days of traditional tobacco, waraq was used.
When asked again about the rumour of using cowhide in the waraq-making process, he said, “Big companies that use machines are spreading these rumours to eliminate handwork.” Although machines can produce real waraq, they lack the aesthetic appeal. “It does not have the beauty of handwork.”
Waraq is also mentioned in Ayurveda, where it is believed to have medicinal properties. It became prominent during the Mughal era and was primarily used in Lucknow, Delhi, and Hyderabad. This craft was traditionally passed down through generations, especially in Lucknow. It symbolises purity, luxury, and elegance, adding richness and beauty to food.
In Hyderabad, it likely began in the 19th century or even earlier, gaining prominence during the time of the Nizams, who were known for their lavish lifestyle. Since then, it has been used to decorate sweets, dry fruits, desserts, and even some savoury items to convey luxury and aesthetics.
Cheaper alternatives to original silver and gold waraq include synthetic aluminium and copper alloys. These are used merely for visual appeal and are not meant to be consumed, as they are not edible. In fact, they pose health risks such as stomach infections and food poisoning.
